The Time Out Guide to Eating and Drinking

Opened ten years ago, Delfina is a part-gallery, part-eaterie, and manages to perform both roles with aplomb. Tables are well spaced (we didn’t notice the nearest diners were smokers), and the decor is a soothing palette of white, pale green and navy, with tasteful wall art. The relaxed, informal atmosphere is boosted by friendly and informative staff, who help you around Maria Elia’s innovative monthly changing menu. A start of a huge, tender scallop in pancetta came with a rich white bean aioli. Our other choice, sardine with polenta, was a substantial (if fiddly to bone) fish on a pile of creamy, chillified cornmeal; it went well with the accompanying tart green tomatoes. A crisp but fruity Rioja from Delfina’s own vineyard made a fine accompaniment. Fish of the day was a firm and chunky Australian yellowfin, grilled and served with a slightly vinegary salad. Equally well-cooked barramundi came on a zingy bed of pomelo, peanut and beanshoot salad. Dessert (we could only managed one between two) was a dream: a huge chocolate tart topped with a poached pear, and basil and coconut sorbet. In all, Delfina is a treat for the senses.